My first trip to Canada
Driving through the heart of the Canadian Rockies in a motorhome.
There is a raw, untamed magic to Western Canada that catches you completely off guard. I didn’t fully know what to expect for my first-ever venture across the Atlantic. But driving roughly 545 miles (877 km) through the Canadian Rockies—from Edmonton down to Calgary—completely blew me away.
Travelling with a group of eight colleagues, experiencing the sheer, monumental scale of the Rockies felt utterly epic. It was unreal. Everything hit the senses differently: the crispness of the air, the rich scent of pine, the intensity of the colours, and the wildlife. Even the animals you think you know, like crows, are different there—they are absolutely massive.
You find yourself constantly stopping and staring at the sheer beauty of it all. I had seen some pictures and read about these places, but standing there in the flesh? That is a whole different game.
From Hamburg to the land of pick-up trucks
Our journey began with a flight from Hamburg to Frankfurt with Condor, followed by the long leg over to Calgary, before hopping straight onto a third, smaller aircraft to Edmonton.
Stepping out of the airport, the very first thing that caught my eye was the scale of the vehicles. Literally everyone seems to drive around in massive pick-up trucks! Because of the intense winter weather and partly rugged road conditions, so many of the cars had rust, gravel chips, and cracked windscreens. Most of the roads themselves felt like an adventure, dotted with deep craters and loose gravel that let you know you’ve truly arrived at the frontier.
Our stay in Edmonton
We spent our first two nights at the Varscona Hotel, a lovely, clean base on 82 Ave NW. The reception team were very helpful and polite, and the breakfast buffet gave us the perfect fuel for the days ahead.
This neighbourhood is electric. Packed with independent restaurants, cosy cafes, and vibrant bars, the weekend atmosphere felt like stepping into a lobby from Grand Theft Auto—there was just so much happening around us. The buildings here are low-rise, only one or two stories high, which makes it feel as if you were in the US, and every other person seemed to roll past on a heavy motorbike or a rumbling truck.
On our first night, we ate out at a local spot named MEAT. They smoke everything on-site, and their smoked chicken was absolutely delicious. The next morning, we walked through the historic Old Strathcona district, marvelling at the vibrant street art, before boarding the “Edmonton Explorer Trolley Tour” to take in the city skyline.
My absolute favourite highlight of Edmonton was an e-bike excursion with Food Bike Tour. We rode through the city, stopping at three brilliant culinary gems:
- Bodega Tapa & Wine Bar: Where we were served a delicious, authentic paella.
- Aspen: A cosy café that roasts its own beans. Their strawberry rhubarb muffin paired with a peanut butter and banana latte was heaven.
- Backstairs Burger: Our final, indulgent savoury stop.
After the tour, I decided to wander down some of the quiet side streets. By complete chance, I stumbled upon a group of local kids playing live music right out of an open garage in a back alleyway. It was one of those raw, authentic moments you can’t plan—and you get a lot of those out there.
Picking up our Fraserway RV rentals
On Monday, the real adventure began. We headed over to Fraserway RV in Edmonton to pick up our homes on wheels. Our group managed to assemble quite the fleet:
| Vehicle type | Best suited for | Key feature | Pros/Cons |
| Truck Camper | Couples / Solo travellers | Feels like driving a large car | Great speed; can feel cramped without a slide-out; must step outside to access living space |
| Van B+ | Couples | Modern interior design | Great living space; all settings controllable via touchpad; limited food storage space |
| Class C Motorhome-XLarge | Families / Larger groups | Sleeps 6 comfortably | Great living space; fantastic slide-out; passengers in the back don’t all face forward; loud cabin rattling while driving; large to manoeuvre |
| Class A Motorhome | Luxury travellers | Maximum living space | Great living space; spectacular driving visibility; heavy fuel consumption |
The Fraserway staff gave us a brilliant, thorough walkthrough, explaining how to operate the slide-outs, heating, and ovens, right down to the less glamorous task of emptying the grey and black water tanks.
Once we had the keys, we targeted the nearest supermarket. I have never seen a shopping list that long in my life—we left with five trolleys packed to the brim! Stocking up on basics like water, salt, pepper, coffee, and bread was vital, but we also made sure to grab some Canadian essentials: Canada Dry Ginger Ale, maple syrup, and ready-mix pancake batter.
Having our own kitchen on board gave us the ultimate freedom to choose between eating out or cooking together under the stars.
I spent time behind the wheel of both the truck camper and the Class C XLarge. The truck camper is wonderfully nimble, though you can feel the wind gliding between the cab and the camperbox.
If you rent one, definitely opt for a slide-out.
The Class C XLarge was surprisingly easy to handle despite its length, and I slept like a baby in every single one of its beds. However, if you suffer from motion sickness, note that the rear seats face sideways or backwards—the Truck Camper is much better for rear passengers as you face the direction of travel.
Into the wild: Elk Island and Jasper
Our first destination was Elk Island National Park, and the Canadian wilderness wasted no time introducing itself, as we had actual wild bison crossing the road right in front of our bumper!
We stretched our legs along the shores of Astotin Lake, watching Canada geese glide across the water. We had a group campsite to ourselves. Well, almost. We did have to battle a fair amount of mosquitoes and caterpillars.
At later campsites, I noticed some who brought large, pop-up screen tents to throw over the wooden picnic benches. It keeps the bugs out entirely and is well worth the investment.
From Elk Island, we then drove into Jasper, an alpine town tucked into the mountains. While the town centre of Jasper itself is quite commercialised with gift shops, the surrounding wilderness is completely surreal.
We set up camp at Whistlers Campground—a stunning, wide-open site with breathtaking panoramas and spotless facilities. We didn’t have hookups at any of our sites, but the solar panels and generator on our Class C motorhome kept us powered up.
Though high winds unfortunately cancelled our trip up the Jasper SkyTram, we experienced something far more memorable. That very evening, a wild, three-year-old Grizzly Bear strolled right through our campsite.
The next morning required a painful 5:30 AM alarm for a wildlife bus tour, but it was worth every wink of lost sleep. We spotted a furry Hoary Marmot, a Black Bear strolling alongside the road, and an eagle attending to its young tucked away safely in a nest.
Our guide pointed out the immense scars left by the wildfires that destroyed 30% of the forest. The blackened landscape looked otherworldly. Yet, she explained the beautiful ecology behind it: The fire clears deadwood, returns vital nutrients to the soil, and stimulates the germination of fire-dependent seeds, creating richer habitats for the animals.
While the trees haven’t recovered, the forest floor is bursting back to life—and as a bonus for travellers, the lack of dense branches means you can see the mountain peaks far more clearly.
Later that afternoon, we hit the water, rafting down the glacially fed Athabasca River with Jasper Raft Tours. Our guide, Connor—a brilliant Kiwi—shared stories of the surrounding peaks as we drifted downstream. Along the way, we watched two more grizzly bears right on the riverbank and saw an osprey plunge from the sky to snatch a trout right out of the rushing current.
To top off an already unbelievable day, we traded our paddles for leather jackets, gearing up for a thundering ride with Jasper Motorcycle Tours.
Sitting on the back of a Harley Davidson driven by a local named Rob, dressed in full leather gear, I felt like an authentic part of a mountain biker gang. It was an absolute blast!
Chasing waterfalls and glaciers
On day six, we broke camp early to catch Athabasca Falls before the crowds arrived. It is incredible how close the pathways let you get to the edge; you can feel the raw power of the water vibrating through the viewing platforms as it carves deep trenches into the stone. Just be prepared for a face full of icy mountain spray!
Next up was the Columbia Icefield Skywalk. After taking a shuttle bus up to the site, you are free to walk the cliff-edge walkways at your own pace. I am utterly terrified of heights, but I forced myself onto the transparent glass floor jutting out over the canyon. Looking down into the vast valley directly beneath my soles was a thrilling, heart-in-mouth experience I’m so glad I didn’t skip.
Afterwards, we popped into the gorgeous lobby of the Glacier View Lodge for a panoramic view of the icefields before exploring the spectacular landscape photography gallery downstairs in the Discovery Centre.
Our overnight spot was the Johnston Canyon Campground, a cosy site nestled deep within a thick canopy of pine trees. The entire forest smelt beautifully of smoke and pinecones.
Before our evening meal, we gathered our remaining energy for a late afternoon hike through Johnston Canyon in Banff National Park. The trail is famous for its narrow walkways suspended directly over the rushing turquoise water. The walk to the Lower Falls is a gentle 0.75-mile (1.2 km) stroll, but the track gets significantly steeper as you push onwards to the Upper Falls.
Walking along those cliffside pathways right beside the rushing river and limestone cliffs makes you feel completely immersed in the scenery. And because we went in the late afternoon, we had the trail almost entirely to ourselves, especially the upper section.
The shimmering blues of Banff
The following morning, we set off for the world-famous Lake Louise. If I am being entirely honest, it felt a bit like a letdown. Because of the sheer volume of global tourism, you are forced to park far away and board crowded shuttle buses to see it.
However, nearby Moraine Lake recaptured the magic. The crowds felt thinner, and my biggest tip is to climb straight up the rock pile near the shore. The elevated view of the peaks is spectacular, and you’ll find adorable little chipmunks popping up between the boulders all around you. Still, Peyto Lake is my favourite lake, as it felt less commercialised.
Our final base camp was Willow Rock Campground. The wooded tracks were quite tight—parking our two larger motorhomes required a bit of teamwork and someone stepping outside to guide the drivers through the turns. Once settled, I went for a nice warm shower (showers were coin-operated).
We spent two hours wandering through the town of Banff, which I found much more charming than Jasper. It feels like a European skiing village. If you visit, make sure to add these spots to your list:
- BALKAR: A Greek restaurant.
- The Canadian Brewhouse: A lively pub featuring a cheeky sign on the door reading “Husband Daycare”.
- Cow’s: An absolute must for ice cream lovers.
- Arc’teryx & Patagonia: The local storefronts offer top-tier outdoor gear at prices significantly cheaper than you’ll find back home in Europe!
You also cannot miss the Banff Gondola. The sweeping vistas from the summit are mesmerising. Up there, you look out over an endless ocean of pine forests, jagged peaks, and winding rivers, with the entire town of Banff looking like a miniature toy village down in the valley.
For our final full day, we hired e-bikes from Bike Banff Rentals & Tours, exploring the scenic backroads and local campsites like Tunnel Mountain Village.
We concluded our final evening in Canmore, a beautiful, cosy alpine town just west of Calgary. While some of the timber buildings across these towns can occasionally look a bit like temporary movie sets due to their lightweight North American construction methods, the towns are impeccably clean, beautifully maintained, and truly charming.
Leaving a piece of my heart in the Rockies
On Sunday 21 June, our ninth day, we drove down into Calgary to return our trusty vehicles to Fraserway. After a seamless inspection, the team shuttled us straight to the terminal for our journey home.
If you have leftover food or drinks at the end of your road trip, do not throw it away! Fraserway provides a communal drop-off area where arriving travellers can inherit your non-perishable, unopened goods.
It’s a wonderful way to reduce waste and help out a fellow explorer.
This journey was a jam-packed, emotional, and epic adventure that I know I will never forget.
The Canadian Rockies, the close-ups with wildlife, and the open-hearted friendliness of the people are worth every single mile travelled and every single penny spent.
As we lifted off, looking out over the fading peaks, I already knew one thing for certain: I will be back!
Lukas Kaj Hewson, June 2026
Before or after a motorhome trip, it’s often a good idea to spend a few days in a major city.
RV rental San Francisco
Resting dramatically on the edge of Northern California, San Francisco is widely considered one of the best cities in the US. Celebrated around the world for its iconic landmarks, vibrant…
Vancouver itinerary
Explore a modern oceanfront city framed by towering peaks. Park up at picturesque campsites, catch coastal ferries, and launch your ultimate British Columbia road trip.
Camping Los Angeles
Stroll the Santa Monica Pier, take in sweeping skyline views from Griffith Observatory, and soak up iconic film history.
Norway and Finland motorhome itinerary
A 10-day motorhome journey from Rovaniemi to the North Cape. Encounter reindeer in Lapland and witness the Midnight Sun at the edge of the continent.
Calgary to Vancouver road trip
Journey along the Rockies on your way from Calgary to the Pacific coast. Drive past turquoise lakes and massive glaciers, exploring the best of the mountain wilderness in a motorhome.
Central Europe Alps itinerary
Set out on a five-country Alpine loop through Germany, Austria, Italy, France, and Switzerland. Explore historic cities like Munich and Milano, cross high mountain passes, and relax by world-famous lakes.
